I was a little apprehensive about going to South America having heard lots of horror stories about things getting stolen and girls getting attacked. These inhibitions were only worsened by my Grandma's concern about the Argentinian post-war beef with the Brits (she didn't call it beef but at the moment I am too tired to think of a better word so beef will have to do. Moo). 'Now don't mention the war for God's sake Jess, pretend your Canadian, no one hates them'. Do you know what dear Grandma, I'm so glad you imparted that wisdom because I love talking about the war so might have got in a right mess. Bless her!
Once we arrived we were taken straight to our first hostel, America Del Sur in San Telmo. It was so clean and the people were really friendly and more importantly, there was air con. We had showers which ended up in disaster as i managed to flood our room and then fall over mid-nap into an ungraceful heap on the wet floor. Good one Jess, a few hours in and you've already broken your resolution to improve balance. There is no hope for me! After a quick nap and with Becky's map at the ready we were ready to venture out in BA for the first time. The city is beautiful and very European. It reminded me of Paris in some places, Barcelona in others and even London occasionally. It was so hot which only made the city look even better. We wandered the streets to see the President's house (pretty swanky), the independence monument (rather phallic), the Clock and the Recoleta Cemetery. The grave yard was the strangest thing ever, it was lots of tiny and unusual huts which we soon realised showcased actual coffins. I had the fright of my life when I looked in one and something moved sending us into a shrieking panic- it was a bemused cleaner with his feather duster. Good one. We also visited La Boca which is home to the football stadium and a collection of brightly coloured houses interlaced with street performers and markets. Palermo and San Telmo were also must see neighbourhoods, Palermo boasting fancy shops and quirky bars and San Telmo the narrowest house in the world and the home of the author of Mafalda.
Getting around wasn't as easy as I'd expected. They're not fans of the old reliable sign post in Argentina so it was a mission to navigate. The road system is all one way and there are six lanes of angry, beeping cars hurling at you at 100mph. You'd think zebra and pelican crossings would help pedestrians in such a busy city but no, they may as well have not been there because even when the green man said to walk, you'd still have cars screeching around the corners. The tube system was great, really clean and with bright and colourful graffiti over the carriages. Graffiti is everywhere in Argentina and unlike the UK, you won't find 'Kai woz ere 2k13' scrawled on the walls but rather intricate and unusual art work. Back to transport, buses- don't do it! Not unless you have shit-loads of change, can speak Spanish or have a tour guide. The bus drivers aren't the most friendly of beings and just grunt at confused tourists- helpful. Taxis are okay but you have to always go by the meter and preferably pre-book them with your hostel. If that's not possible make sure you flag down a Radio Taxi as they are all registered. The only danger here is the horrendous driving and potential travel sickness. I spent the whole time gasping and stamping my imaginary brakes as the cars zipped between lanes like it was going out of fashion whilst the driver read his newspaper- MENTAL.
The food and drink was really different to the UK. The steak was amazing but when you order steak that is literally all you get, one massive slab of meat on your plate. If you want something with it don't forget to order sides. In saying that, the steak was still amazing and I highly recommend Don Julio in Palermo. We had some questionable meals, particularly when we ordered a salad and were greeted with a bowl of vegetables all compartmentalised in to separate sections- tres bizarre. The beer and lager was much nicer in BA, we had Brahmes and Quilmes which was lighter than beers at home. The wine was lovely, particularly the red apparently but I'm not a fan. The locals all drink this weird hot drink which has tabacco and herbs in it, can't say it appealed to me. They also drink Fermet with Coke which tasted like mixed herbs/bark. Soooo gross.
We went to a tango night which included a free lesson with our teacher Alejandro (could you get anymore stereotypical?) he was great though and divided the girls and the boys to teach us the basic steps. All was going well until we had to mix and the boys had to pick girls to dance with- so awkward but fun nonetheless. We also learnt the importance of the tango face- no smiles her just an angry, fierce, passionate glare. Can't say I mastered it! We then had a three course meal before watching the tango show. The dancing was phenomenal and even the drunk old man who sang intermittently whilst the dancers changed couldn't ruin it.
As far as nightlife goes, we only went out properly once during our brief trip to BA. On our last day we met some lovely Australians and went for some drinks and food with them before heading to a few clubs. At the first club we tried we were greeted by men and women in barely any clothing and covered in lots of oil. It was a sight to behold! There was a dominatrix Oompa Loompa, a transvestite Lady Gaga and god knows what else. We didn't end up going there because it was expensive but instead went to a hip hop night in Palermo. As we entered it was as if we had been transported to the set of Step Up (minus Channing Tatum, sob). People had formed circles around dancers having dance offs to dirty hip hop. It was so surreal and unexpected and the dancing was incredible! As the night went on the music became less gangster and we danced away to a bit of old school Jay-Z, Kanye, Rihanna and Destiny's Child. It was not what I expected at all but I loved it and skanked the night away despite sticking out like a sore thumb in my summer dress.
One thing I was really shocked by was how ridiculously forward men were out there! Everyone was fascinated by Becky's blonde barnet and our blue eyes and weren't afraid to whistle/beep horns. Who said romance is dead? I'd definitely go out with a guy who hissed at me on the street to get my attention... Not. I was pleasantly surprised at how safe it felt in the city though and I absolutely loved Buenos Aires. I would definitely go back because there's so much I didn't see.
I am writing this 18 hours in to my journey from BA to Iguacu Falls. The view out of the window is amazing and I can't believe how nice the bus is! It cost us about £35 and we have so much room and the seats go really far back. We've had three rather questionable meals that neither of us could eat and the films were a bit odd. We had a nun sat behind us and they put on a kick boxing/soft porn film starring Jean Claude Van Dam. You couldn't escape it because it was played through the speakers as well as through the headphone plugs so we all had to drift off to sleep listening to people getting punched/having sex over the sound of my iPod. I felt so awkward especially knowing the nun was behind me.
I thoroughly enjoyed my first few days into my trip and met some amazing people. It has felt like a holiday though so I'm looking forward to staring to rough it a bit more and seeing the waterfalls at Iguacu before heading to the beaches of Brazil.
For those concerned, the money belt is fantastic and so far I'm yet to wash my clothes in a river or contract any bugs. Operation buy pants in every country has so far been unsuccessful.
Missing everyone lots. Ciao! xx
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